Files:

LRB-303 3D Case Files

LRB-303 Knobs and Key Caps

You need: 

2 x LRB303 TONE KNOBs (3 per file), 6 total
5x Key Button (5pcs per file), 25 Total
1x Tap Button (3pcs per file), 3 Total, Need 2
1x Mode Knob (3pcs per file) 3 Total, Need 2
1x Tempo Knob (3pcs per file) 3 Total, Need 2

Rub-on Instructions:

Step 1:

Trim bottom paper of rub-on so neither side goes to the edge.  Prepare your case by washing the surface where it will be applied to,  Test whatever you use on the inside of the case for painted ones to make sure it doesn't attack the paint.   Dont use harsh solvents.

Step 2:

Add Tape to each end.  Use tape that leaves no residue.

Step 3:

Apply to case without taping down, pull out the bottom paper so only the top is exposed and you can pull the paper out the bottom.  This is to protect the bottom graphics until you're ready to apply them.

 

Step 4:

Align the rub-on using two features: TUNE and ACCENT.  Just line up the tick marks to the hole in the case for both these features and everything else will line up correctly.  I recommend lining one side up first, taping that side down and then the other end.  The bottom paper will prevent the graphics touch the panel so you can reposition as you need.  When you are happy with alignment, use the provided tool (pointy wood thing) and gently rub each feature until it transfers.  Use as little force as possible, its a motion like you are drawing on top of each feature with a pencil. I recommend starting with features nearest the edge.  Once the top is done, pull the bottom paper out and finish bottom features.

 

Step 5:


Once everything is rubbed on,  lift the tape on one side only and lift the transfer paper up slowly to make sure everything transferred.  If you missed anything, simply tape down the lifted end, it should line up easily since one end is still taped down.

 

Bill of Materials:

Bag 1 2x B50K (B503) 2x A50K (A503) 1x B50K Dual (B503) 1x 1MA (A105) 2x Brackets 1x A50K 1x C1M 1x 3P4T Switch 1x 1P7T Switch

Bag 2 3x Phone Jacks 2x 3.5mm Jacks 1x Slide Switch 1x Positive Bat Terminal 1x Negative Battery Terminal 1x DC jack 1x Switched DIN Socket 3x Standoffs 3x Tie Wraps 1x Rub-on Tool

Bag 3 25x Tact Switch 25x 4x6mm Standoff 25x3mm LED 2x70mm 4 Pin Ribbon 2x70mm 8 Pin Ribbon 6x Hook up Wires 4x Dust Covers 5x Short Case Screws 6x Long Case Screws 1x Tiny Screw

Bag 4 1x Coil 1x KSD1616 (Q43) 1x KSA916 (Q44) 1x BA662 Clown 1x Headphone Amp (IC14) 1x TIP30 (Q45) 1x OS-303 CPU 1x MIDI board with Cable

 

Cable Legend:

Connection	Color	Length
GND	Blk	135
RUN	brown	175
TAP	Purple	210
R/S	Orange	135
Battery+	RED	475
Battery -	Blk	240

 

 

Assembly Instructions:

General Assembly tips:

Do NOT solder pot tabs until you have had a chance to fit the completed boards into the case.  Much easier to make adjustments BEFORE those are soldered down

Switchboard

Step 1:

Trim rails from board.  They break off with pliers easily

Step 2:

Trim ribbon leads to around half length.  The leads get wider at the bottom so snipping those off eases installation

Step 3:

Solder ribbon to board.  This step can be done later if you wish, I prefer to do it before soldering LEDs/Switches

 

Step 4:

Fit LEDs into standoffs.  This can be done either way, standoff holes on top will raise the LEDs a bit. Your choice, just make sure they are all the same way.  There is an extra LED and standoff in the kit

 

Step 5:

Fit all parts on to switch board.  LEDs are fit with long leg (Anode) -> triangle on the footprint.

 

Make sure all switches are pushed all the way down and flush with the board.

Solder everything down.  I recommend using the panel as jig so all the LEDs line up with the holes and get soldered in straight.  I use a couple of pieces of tape to keep the panel fixed to the switch board

Switchboard Complete!

Mainboard

Step 1:  

Place and solder low components.  Make sure you take care to mount the Headphone (LA4140 or AN7112) amp and 662 Clown with pin 1 matching the silk screen on the PCB

Coil has a pin that does not get soldered

 

Step 2:

Mount remaining parts and solder remaining parts.

 

Potentiometer codes:

B503 = 50KB
A503 = 50KA
A105 = 1MA

 

Bend the bracket legs in place but DONT solder in place

Step 3:

Join the Mainboard and Switchboard

The recommended method is to solder the top and bottom pin of each cable, check to make sure its straight and flush, then solder the remaining pins

 

Step 4:

Solder the wire jumpers according to this list.  The pins are number so connection 28 on the mainboard corresponds to connection 28 on the switch board.

Connection	Color	Pad Number
GND	Blk	28
RUN	brown	1
TAP	Purple	27
R/S	Orange	2
Battery+	RED	30
Battery -	Blk	29

First Power Up/Calibration

Step 1:

Without the processor installed, connect a 9V center NEGATICE DC supply, turn power on via volume switch and confirm voltages at the following locations.  They dont have to be exact (i.e. 11.8 is fine for 12V, 5.333 is 5 something)

Step 2:

Install processor.  Power up device and adjust TM6 so you read 5.333V at the test point shown above.

Step 3:

Tempo Clock Calibration:

Connect a scope to TP1.  Adjust TM1 so the period of the clock pulse is 8ms +/- 1ms

VCF Calibration:

Connect a scope to TP6 (the outer leg of the resonance pot).  Set the CUTOFF FREQ potentiometer to center, WAVEFORM to SAW, RES potentiometer to full clockwise, ENV MOD, DECAY, ACC full counter-clockwise. Adjust TM3 so the period of the resonance waveform is 2ms +/- 0.5ms.  

VCO Calibration:

This is easiest to do via MIDI so:  make sure MIDI note is ON by holding the NORMAL button and pressing CLEAR to access the settings.  The Step 1 key toggles MIDI control (LED on/ON, LED off/OFF).  Make sure the tune knob is in the center position, Cutoff full clock wise, all other controls full counter clockwise

Calibrate VCO SPAN

On a MIDI keyboard, press high C, C5.  Note the frequency on a counter/scope/meter, Play low C, C2.  Adjust the frequency using TM5 until C2 is 1/8th the frequency of C5.  

Calibrate VCO CENTER

Play A2 on your MIDI Keyboard, adjust TM4 so frequency is 110Hz

 

Final Assembly

Step 1: Mount the metal key panel 

Remove the tape from the back and attach to top of case.  Make sure the panel is centered on the holes.  Firmly press along the inside surfaces where the tape is to ensure there panel is secure.  The tape is VERY sticky, take extra care with this step since you will regret it if you mess this up

 

Step 2: Tie Wrap battery terminals

This step will save you a lot of grief later on.  Follow pics below, its best to lash them towards the top of the stand offs.  Trim the tiewraps and make sure the clasp faces inside so it cant interfere with assembly

Step 3: Knobs and Caps

The 3d printed caps need to be pressed ALL the way down onto the switches

The knobs MUST have the sprue cut flush with the sides 

Test fit the knobs, if they are too tight, you can use the shaft of the rotary switch (or some other T18 metal shaft) to open the holes by heating the T18 shaft with a hot air gun or torch and pressing the knob onto that.  The clear knobs tend to need it more than the standard resin.  Do NOT force the knobs on, they should go on smoothly and you should be able to remove them without to much effort.  The 3D printed knobs are designed to fit flush with the panel

 

Step 4: Mount the board

First step is to attach the MIDI IO board to the boss printed in the panel, use the tiny screw to secure.  Its a bit awkward to do this so I recommend keeping the IO board connected to the FFC cable and laying the PCB and case with the top edges touching.  Should you need to disconnect the IO board, the contact part (the silver side) always faces opposite of the black part of the connecter.

 

Place the dust covers into place

 

WITHOUT THE KNOBS, insert the boards into the top of the case.  Check that none of the wires are interfering in and areas; Namely the screw posts and around the switch panel.

Make sure the switch board sits well into the switch board cavity.  All caps should protrude to the same height.  Make sure the ribbon cables are bent around the PCB and do not interfere with the fit.

Now attach the battery guide using two of the shorter screws.

 

 

Place the knobs.  Make sure they line up correctly, it can be difficult to remove them at this stage and you will have to take it apart to fix any mistakes.  If the fit is good, now solder the tabs on all the ports on the PCB

 

Connect the battery terminals by simply pressing them into the slots on the base.  Attach the bottom of the case with the two short screws on the bottom by the battery compartment and the rest with the long screws.  MAKE SURE to check that none of the wires are interfering with the posts or getting pinched somewhere before tightening everything down.  DO NOT over tighten screws

Congratulations on your new LRB-303!!